by Glenn Bator » Fri Jan 18, 2019 3:54 pm
Hello All,
Thank you for the feedback! As mentioned, I sincerely appreciate the time and effort that you all have put towards my request for critique. I have received a number of responses with certain points of interest. One note, to the gentleman that did not want to view my video because I was wearing gloves, just for your information, I got in the habit of wearing them after my doctor discovered that my liver count was off because of the solvents being absorbed through the pours in my hands. It's not vanity, it's a safety thing!
Here are a few items that were brought to light by one or more of our fellow enthusiasts.
Oil tank cap has the short oil tank cap screw arms. Should be the full length arms. Part # 62620-52. You do have the correct smooth sided cap.
Shocks have the wrong interior rear fork suspension stud nuts (4). Should be older style flex lock nut part# 7993 *hard to find!*
Shock Cups are A/B – Should be stamped “R” – part # 54539-56 *hard to find!*
Crankcase breather pipe 24912-54. Should be routed toward the center of the engine, inside of the oil pressure switch.
Fuel shutoff valve 62125-55. Should have “reserve” stamped valve knob mounted forward. Looks like plain knob now.
Missing fuel line clips. 9998 – Dave C says these are optional depending on fuel line type. **after having a fuel line hose pop off on me on an old Triumph I was restoring while riding, I don’t know if I would trust a non-clamped connection.
Oil line rubber hose part # 63517-54 should be cloth covered. I am working on a solution for this with Jerry Raino’s help.
Front fork panel 4 side screws. 2823. Should be rounded - not flat top. Those are available at Colony - Kit part # 3175-6. Same for the coil cover mounting screws 2823. Rounded not flat head. **This is under discussion with Dave C** Not sure if I am correct.
Gas tank paint lines are off a little bit by the emblems. Should intersect bottom of the Harley white box and the top of the Davidson white box
Seat front mount nut – should this be parkerized? It is on the Blue Chasteen bike.
This one is from a Dave C. conversation: Rear shock top cover clamps are stainless - part # 54705-52, not chromed, as are all exhaust and muffler clamps
Another members response to the above!
2. Museum bike and I believe the Raino #20 bike have nylocks on the shock studs top and bottom. This bike would most likely have nylocks
6. See museum bike, this hose is also used on lawn mower motors.Loren carpenter researched this.
9. All of the masking was done by hand and minor variations did occur.
10. Nut is cad, Don is in error.
11. Could be polished stainless, like the horn and air cleaner covers. I prefer not to polish.
It would be interesting to get the shock cup marking story, R vs. A, B.
1., 3. 4., 5, 7, 8, all good stuff, we learn something every day. It takes a village.
I also had a question on the distributor point base. The question was, when did the notch happen on the bottom edge and was it correct for the 57? The thought was that the notch was for the K Model to possibly clear the lifter block and when did it change over and what was the difference between the 32575-52 and 32575-57?
Here's another:
Is your shifter bolt correct direction? Factory, came up from the bottom? Just asking?
RE:
Hello R,
Thank you for the email and I appreciate you looking the 57 over for me.
Dave Carleton caught the rear fender front support being painted instead of parkerized, the front fender upper mounting bolts should have the narrow pinch nuts and the upper motor mounts should not have washers under the bolt heads.
Looking back on the factory museum 57, it has the bolt for the shifter coming from the top with the nut on bottom.
Anyway, here you go and thank you all for the feedback! If the bike does not sell at auction, I will be bringing it back home to correct all of the infractions and will do another video for everyone to make fun of!
Glenn