Front Fork Condition?

[Mayday53]

I cleaned up my front fork tubes today but I am not sure if they are too far gone to be safe, usable. It appears to just be cosmetic, but better safe than sorry for asking.
Thoughts on pictures?

[Mayday53]

More Pics....Also, the tubes were corrode a bit but cleaned right up with a wire brush. Were they originally chrome? It is hard to tell, they look just like stainless. I was recommended to buy new ones ($225 a V twin) and I ordered them through the builder, but after cleaning the originals up, I think they look pretty nice.

[EKHKHK56]

More important is the condition of the inside. I was going to mention safety items about K forks. Your insides must be in good condition as they hold the forks together at the bottom nut/stud. I think H-D made the K fork retaining nut/stud larger at some point as a safety measure. I have a photo of Racer Marsh Runyon come off a TT jump with the lower legs and wheel reaching the ground long before the rest. In other words under hyper extension the studs snapped allowing the forks to seperate. We need to find more about the fastner upgrade, when, what etc to elaborate on this topic. In the same safety department you want to make sure the lower tree has the tube retaining bolt which can allow fork tree seperation if left out. It also retains the nut from spinning on the steering dampener. Hidden rust can be a killer in the wrong spots, and common in a Barnster® situation. Good topic, needs a **Safety Warning** label...Erik

[EKHKHK56]

Original tubes appear to be raw steel painted black on my early ones. Get the same length to retain handling geometry.

[Mayday53]

Thanks, I ordered Chrome tubes with the same diameter, but I am not sure on the length. The guy helping me do the build ordered them so I will have to check. As for the inside, I see some minor surface rust but do not see any major rust. The surface rust brushed away pretty easily. This site is proving VERY useful for me, thanks to everyone helping me with information!

[Mayday53]

Here are the tubes and I tried to show inside, the pic is not good, but the insides looked pretty darn clean.

[EKHKHK56]

So the insides I am talking about are the shock absorber and shock absorber tube. All parts must be in good condition and with good threads, nuts, etc. Any weaknesses or corrosion on those parts could mean fork seperating aleventually. With your new tubes check the bushing play in the fork slider lower tubes, if more than a lttle you should have them bushes and fitted. Dealerships used to do that service, I think Bill's Custom Cycles used to. Also Forks by Frank used to provide the highest quality center cut tubes with even plating made here in USA.

[Mayday53]

Thanks, if not obvious this is my first Harley build...and what a dandy to start on too! Here are the other components.

Also, an old bike dude said they make better springs now that would make the shocks (and fluid) no longer needed. Any knowledge on that?

[MTaylor]

Yes, there are four bushings in the lower sliders, two on each side, and you can check the fit pretty close without measuring. Just slide your tube into the slider and check for a tight fit. There should be almost no movement.

From 52-67, a 3/8" stud went through the lower slider and was held on by a nut. In 68, they started using a 7/16" bolt that threaded into the bottom of the shock absorber. Sometimes, if the shocks have had water in them, the stud will be corroded and possibly dangerous.

Progressive makes a updated set of springs for 33.4 shocks. The springs are shorter and require the use of a spacer. The difference is not visible from the outside of the bike. I put a set in my 71 Superglide, hoping to make it less bouncy, and it seems to have helped a little.