To answer your question I have not done what you asked about, but there’s not much to damage inside the switch so I wouldn’t be concerned with that, assuming it is all in good condition to start with. Since Parkerizing can be done at a relatively low tempt (150-170F), the phenolic face plate should have no issue tolerating those conditions for 10-20 minutes. You would want to submerse the switch in WD-40 immediately after draining Parkerizing solution from it to assure it any water present was displaced from the internals. Likely wouldn’t be a bad idea to soak it in an oil of your choice thereafter and allow to drain for an extended period of time to assure the inside was both free of moisture and well lubricated. The stem that activates the switch is cad plated and this might be etched a bit by the acidic Parkerizing solution.
I’ve disassembled these switches and restored the factory finish to the parts and was fortunate enough to not crack the ears when reassembling. If I was doing it again, I would likely do as Palmer suggests.
- LR Brake light switch guts.jpg (110.94 KiB) Viewed 4579 times