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Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2020 8:29 pm
by nicf
Hello I was wondering if someone could walk me through changing the oil on a 1952 k model? I have the engine oil and transmission oil I’ve just never done it before on this bike. Any help, advice or tips would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2020 1:19 pm
by Mark.A
Hey nicf I would suggest that you find a K model riders hand book.Do a google search I just did and there are a number of them out there

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2020 2:18 pm
by EKHKHK56
Hello. Engine and Transmission share SAME OIL. Use racing oil with zinc or similar, STRAIGHT 40 to 70 weight. Drain crankcase, oil tank, trans. Look up capacity and add to trans case until flows out of level check valve on Original drain plug. Add the rest to the tank. Run it for a few minutes than check level in oil tank. It should be at least half full to 3/4. XL caps have a dipstick. Erik K

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2020 5:59 pm
by Mark.A
Hey just a warning about the plugs on the underside of crankcase and transmission these have a tendency to strip on old k’s and xl’s and they don’t need to be removed to change oil

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2020 6:42 pm
by Ferrous_Head
Not a K huy, strictly Sportsters.

But isn't the gearbox oil level set with a tube/plug on the bottom of the case ?

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 5:27 am
by thefrenchowl
Yes, FE, big hex screw with "weir" tube underneath tranny to pull out to drain tranny oil, and little hex blank screw concentric with big hex to get oil level right via the weir tube...

But only on Ks which have the 5/5 plates clutch and thin primary cover without level screw.

From 54 KH, moded to 7/7 plates clutch, wider primary cover has level screw near left foot peg like all following Sportsters.

No drain hex under primary/clutch until 70s Sportsters I believe...

And please, can we not confuse useless POs or Os with super extended spanners and supposedly weak threads on alloy cases???

Patrick

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 6:29 am
by Ferrous_Head
I also have another theory on why so many stripped sump plugs.

I used to have a Suzuki dealership (yeah yeah but they gave it to me for free and it paid the bills)
And I would get customers with new(ish) bikes trying to save money by doing their own oil changes. And I had no real problem with that.
But a number of customers managed to strip sump plugs. These weren't bikes that hadn't had plugs removed for decades. One was a 650G only 6 months old.
But people not used to undoing sump plugs have trouble remembering that CCW becomes clockwise looking at it from the wrong perspective. NOT being upside down. ie, mot laying flat on your back and looking up at the sump plug.
They think "of course it's tight - don't want it to come loose. So, they just use a 1/2 drive ratchet and socket and give it a good old tug. To break it free.
Then want someone else to helicoil it in situ.
And guarantee the job.

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 8:33 am
by thefrenchowl
What I said, FE...

Not knowledgeable enough and ham-fisted owners, then, like if they were innocents, blame the manufacturer afterwards!!!

Patrick

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 8:59 pm
by Mark.A
Let me stand corrected obviously motors don’t strip drain plugs the owners do that.I don’t know the history of nicf ‘s k but it was meant to proceed with caution when dealing with these drain plugs. I am only going off my own experience with these bikes as both my 52 and 62 came to me with damaged drain plugs that had to be dealt with

Re: Changing the oil on a k model

PostPosted: Sun May 24, 2020 10:54 pm
by EKHKHK56
They should have a nice sealing washer also, like stock one. Without, it would leak. Than they get overtorqued trying to seal, pulling those threads...Thickish Fibre or Nylon, or thin Copper, Brass good options.