If it was mine, and if you tend to operate the vehicle like a normal human being, I’d build the
clutch with the parts I had on hand - either wet or dry, and either should outlast you. If you abuse the hell out of it, the dry
clutch is definitely the more robust solution. The dry
clutch version is basically what’s been used on XR flat track racers from the beginning of time, where nowadays the engines develop on the order of 100 HP, they do 2nd gear starts all season long and they slip the
clutch the entire way out of the box until the 1st shift. With a wet
clutch you can do this type of start exactly “1” time before the steel plates turn blue and become so distorted that the
clutch will no longer disengage. And how, you might ask, do I know this ?
Many modern bikes have full pressure oil purging through their wet
clutch to cool it, which makes for a very robust
clutch. Unfortunately our old steeds have no means of oil cooling the
clutch hence the blue outcome under severe service. But under normal service the wet
clutch is perfect as is.
If you do go the dry route, do a good job of sealing the
clutch hub (seal all penetrations of the hub) and it should stay dry for many years. My $0.02