Clutch issues

[DaveAus]

Only two weeks away from taking my KR out onto the track for its first real run in anger.

I have one issue I can’t seem to sort out so I’m looking for some advice. I can’t seem to get the clutch to stop slipping.

I have multiple issues and in no order
1) clutch basket shakes around
2) can’t seem to seal the clutch. I’m thinking about just running it wet (not sure if my plates can be run wet)
3) my clutch springs are a strange size so I don’t know exactly where to set the pressure. I can’t set it as per the factory specs but that’s too tight and makes them bind. I set it so I could kick it over without slipping but that didn’t help.

Pictures below and I’d include a video if I knew how to



















Input / opinions would be appreciated

Thanks
Dave

[Ferrous_Head]

1) clutch basket shakes around

There is always some movement of the clutch basket Check the shim between thee kicker plate and the bearing.
The bearing itself may be worn.

2) can’t seem to seal the clutch. I’m thinking about just running it wet (not sure if my plates can be run wet)

It's possible you have some loose rivets, There are rivets holding on the kicker plate and the dogs. They all need to be tight. Some clutch plates can be tun wet but any clutch run wet will hold less torque than a dry clutch. If you can keep the clutch dry it is an excellent clutch
A bit hard for me to tell from your pictures but ZI would say those friction plates have been oiled. They are never going to work once they have been saturated in oil. You can try burning them but I would just replace them.

3) my clutch springs are a strange size so I don’t know exactly where to set the pressure. I can’t set it as per the factory specs but that’s too tight and makes them bind. I set it so I could kick it over without slipping but that didn’t help.

If your not sure about the springs, poundage or length just buy some new ones. Don't buy heavy duty springs. If the clutch is set up correctly they are not necessary and you'll just make the pull harder and possibly bend the arms on the worm.

Because your short on time what I would do if I were you would be to buy a set of Barnett Sintered iron frictions and a selection of their steels. If this is a seven plate clutch set the stack height at 35mm. If it's a 5 plate probably 25. Set the springs position as per the FSM

Be aware if you go to sintered iron plates when you first put them in they will slip a bit when cold. But once they heat up they will grip. Unlike other materials these plates get grippier as they get hot. On your warm up lap let it slip, make it slitp. That way once you get back to the start line your good to go.

I run a 7 plate Ironhead in my P3 Sidecar. 90 HP on Methanol. That's nearly 900 kbs coming off the line. Rider, passenger and bike.

I run a 6 inch Hoosier racing compound on the back. It spins up. No clutch slip. And it won't make much difference if the clutch does leak a bit. Once the plates get hot enough they will burn it off.

[Ferrous_Head]

Oh !

Forgot to add. Of course, all of this is just my opinion and others may disagree.

[Ferrous_Head]

Surprised no one else has chimed in about your clutch woes.

That's a very nice bike you've put to together. I can see you are seriously interested in making the bike work. The front forks look like (bear in mind I'm legally blind) replica Ceriani's with the compression and rebound damping.
Front borks ? Grimeca from a Suzuki ? Good brakes but very heavy compared to the Cerianis, Fontans's, meanani's etc

Did you mount your left footpeg from the case bolt holes ? Worried me that if I dropped the bike, (sorry, when I dropped the bike) on it's left side it would make a mess of that area of the cases.

[44UL]

Dave! Looking good, a nice home for those stickers I gave you!

In my experience (not nearly as long as many here) I convert my K's and early XLCH's to a wet clutch. The Alto brand set I get from Vtwin has been good so far, but were backordered for what seemed like years. I know other brands make them too, I just haven't tried any.

[Ferrous_Head]

That's the problem when your up against the clock.

You spend a small fortune (often) just getting the bike to the start line. Not just in the bike but in travel and accommodation costs, entry gees and garage or pit fees, fuel, tires and so on.

Yo go through all of that and then not get a run or have problems that stop you or leave you only "half running" can be a really disheartening affair. It's hard enough with a proven bike and experience with multiple meetings at that track.

The wet Alto's might work or they might not. I had almost no success until I finally went to the sintered iron plates. Not had a problem since. I have no idea why others don't use them. Well, all of the drag racers do.

But new springs and you set them so the plate lifts evenly all the way around. I set them according to the FSM but then adjust them individually if needed. If the pressure plate doesn't lift evenly you will always get some drag. You then try to reduce that drag by lifting the pressure plate higher and the clutch now slips.

You do have the pressure plate lifting evenly, don't you ?