Sportster clutch

[Mutt]

This is just a general Sportster question, just not the 57-69, but the 70's type.

I've been wrenching on vintage Harleys for over 25 years straight. I don't believe I can think of anything else as worthless of a design and the 70 and up clutch actuator !!! What a piece of CRAP. What was wrong with the mech that H-D had used from 1948 thru 1969?

I don't mind rebuilding the flywheels, boring cylinders, doing a valve job, but man, I sure hate putting that primary cover back on. For the last 25+ years, I have only been lucky the times that the cover went back on without a hitch. I have never "understood" why they were so hard to put back on. A customer brought in a 73 last week. Says the motor was just gone thru and it started but when ya was letting the clutch out, it would kill it. Seems like a simple adjustment. Well, it was way more than that.

I took it for a spin and the clutch was slipping, so I adjusted the center adjuster til it touched, then backed it off very slightly. Went to remove slack from the cable and noticed the adjuster had 2 nuts instead of one, but no matter what ya turned, nothing moved. So I pulled the cover. Someone had installed a 3rd nut on the adjuster inside the cover...................

So after a few minutes of removing all the nuts off the adjuster and putting the nut on the out side and reinstalling the cable into the actuator mech, I reinstalled the cover, pulled in the clutch lever and heard the "CLICK", then nothing, as I always dread.

Any way, is there someone on this forum that has been riding a 70- up type Sportster for many years that can take the time to tell me why this mech never goes back on right for me? This was supposed to be a 20 minute job, now it has turned into hours......

The mech is staked into the cover as usual, I made sure there was plenty of slack in the adjuster, that the 3 balls were in place in their pockets and the actuator all the way to the rear before putting the cover back on (3 times)

Any one willing to walk me thru this installation, before I pull what is left of my hair out of the top of my head?

Thanks
mutt

[strong56KH]

If you don't get a reply here, try posting this on the Sportster website.

http://xlforum.net/vbportal/modules/Jig/index.php

[Mutt]

The clutch was working before I pulled the cover (it was just slipping under power , but did work)

I'm lost.

I start by screwing the cable adjuster in, so there is slack in the lever, then screw the center adjusting screw in how far?
Turning the center adjusting screw in til it touches, then stop and lock it down. The center adjusting screw isn't taking up any slack in the cable. Screwing the center adjuster in more only presses in the pressure plate.
What is this loud "POP" when I install the side cover, then pull in the lever and nothing happens after that? It happens on every Sporty clutch I have ever worked on and many other people I know have the same problem.

[Mutt]

No, bike runs fine, the popping noise is just one loud pop. Install the cover and a handful of screws, then pull in the clutch (motor not running) lever. That is when the pop happens. What is making this sound? I have heard it on nearly every sportster I have messed with

[sportsterpaul]

Yes, Tom's instructions are exactly right and must be followed exactly. Tighten center, loosen cable, insure center still tight, adjust cable, loosen center. Refer to the service manual, which agrees with Tom. It might seem goofy to over-tighten the center screw, and then adjust the cable, but this is the exact reason that keeps the cable from pulling off when you pull in the clutch. When you over-tighten the center screw, it forces the arm to go to its start position, with the balls in the deepest part of their little ramps. The arm happens to be pointing straight down on a wet clutch Iron Sportster. This is why Tom said to keep loosening the cable until you have the lever all sloppy, and that center screw turned in a turn or two, way tight.

OK, so now you adjust the cable, via the long threaded barrel that screws into the primary cover. I like to get it pretty snug, then back it off until I can see the lever sag a little bit and get a little play. Tighten the jam nut on the barrel. NOW you go to that center screw and loosen it until it is just touching. You can squeeze the lever as you do this-- to get it just right. Then tighten the jam nut, making sure the center screw does not move, or you compensate for its movement. Its OK to have the center screw a tiny bit tight on wet clutch setups, since the force is carried by ball bearings. You have to set up dry clutches much looser, they should not touch at all so the rods can spin free.

If the clutch drags then you may have the two big springs oriented so the outer plate does not stay square as you pull the clutch. Unlike the dry clutch, you can't watch it work with the primary cover off. I had a pal with a brand new Barnett spring in the clutch, all pretty and powder coated. Its a single spring, and that is the problem. The factory used two nested springs in the wet clutch for a reason, so the plate would not cant as much as you pull the clutch. I put the two factory springs in and solved the problem. The RamJet "tamer" tries to stabilize the clutch via the adjuster, but I do not recommend it-- just set up the two springs right and it works OK. This is why dry clutch setups have 6 little springs. When you press the center, the plate moves without canting.

Another tip is using the Barnett steel lever. It is thinner, so you get a tiny bit more travel when you squeeze the clutch. As a bonus, they don't break off when you dump the bike, they just get bent and you can straighten them back out.

[Mutt]

Hey y'all. Back with more on this Sportster clutch. Pulled the clutch assembly and the bearing that is in the clutch shell. the bearing has ZERO slop, I mean ZERO. Wish I could find more bearings like this one !!

Anyway, now I know that is not the culprit. I did find this. The shaft itself has no up/down play, but the bearing does move back/forth between the snap ring. I don't know if this is taken up when the clutch is reassembled, or if it would even matter if it wasn't. I can squeeze a .020 feeler gauge between the bearing the the snap ring. I'm just about at a loss. Don't know why HD ever stopped using the 69/earlier type set up. Super easy to adjust.................


https://youtu.be/kPK0GE7bQks